How to make a sprocket holding tool

This is the tool you'll need to hold the clutch hub on a Panhead. Working on the primary drive can really be a pain in the ass. What you need is a couple of bucks worth of hand made tools to make it a easier. Pictured below are five easy and cheap tools that make taking apart and reassembling the primary a lot less painful.

The first step in pulling the primary drive apart is removing the clutch. It doesn't get much easier than this. Now you don't have to live in fear that the clutch spring will fly off at super sonic speed and nuclear force just as you loosen the pressure plate nuts down to the last thread.

The second step in disassembling the primary is to lock the engine sprocket to the clutch basket, this will keep the engine from rotating when you put your big wrench on the engine sprocket nut. Cut your strap to fit between the sprockets as shown in the picture. You'll want to grind the ends of the strap somewhat round to nestle in to the teeth on the sprockets.

Cut the steel tube and threaded rod so you can pinch the steel straps between the sprockets as shown in the picture. Tighten the nuts and the two sprockets will be locked together and will not turn so you can easily remove the big nut on the motor sprocket. The last step is to take the big nut off the clutch hub.

So how do you keep the whole mess from turning? You just locked the engine sprocket to the clutch basket, so if you lock the clutch basket to the hub, you'll be able to remove the clutch hub nut. Get yourself some old clutch plates. You cay the fiber plate on the concrete floor in your garage and beat the fiber friction material with a hammer, it will break off easily. Now you can weld the plates together. You'll need to weld or bolt the fiber plate to the steel plate in order to lock the hub to the basket.

They will need to be correctly centered and aligned to each other before they are welded together, so set them in the clutch basket and mark them carefully, if they are not centered with each other they won't fit in the basket.

If you can't weld them together you can just drill and bot them, they drill easily. Very Clever. You saved yourself alot of money and they look like they should work very well.

My experience with special tools is that they are terribly overpriced. Very nice - I made several of my own as well. I borrowed the cam gear puller and didn't bother with the crank lock 5sp, left in gear and kept checking TDC mark or the engine support floor jack under pan. Cam holder scrap steel welded up :. It would be useful to have the hole centre dimensions in order to make them up before hand. Crank Lock Dimensions Many thanks for your trrouble.

The crank should be allowed to freely move. You tension the belt, position the crank at tdc, and with the cam and pump locked, tighten the cam pully and pump pullys. If you do it right, it will be spot on. If you do use a crank lock, you can actually misgalign things a touch and not know it.

Cam sprocket bolt and the 3 injection pump sprocket bolts were loose. Then I've put tension on the tensioner and tightened the tensioner, cam sprocket bolt and the 3 injection sprocket bolts, removed the blocking tools, rotated the engine twice by hand, put the tools back in, all was right on tdc.

Oldpoopie: If I read your posting well, your way of changing the timing belt is a bit different than the one explained in the a4timingbelt. The one explained in the a4timingbelt. But If you check in both ways that the engine is on TDC after rotating it twice, I think both ways are good. The a4 pdf is in my opinion incorrect. What I do is: position the crank , cam, and pump at tdc. Lock pump and cam Loosen pump bolts Put new belt on Tension belt verify crank is at tdc.

If it moved usually very little re-position at tdc via teeth on flywheel. Tighten cam bolt Tighten pump bolts By doing it this way you ensure that you are not applying any stretching forces on the belt when tightening the cam or crank.

Features 8mm spanner pins Jaws open up to 5 inches wide Recommended for square tooth style clutch hubs Not recommended for v-groove or half round style clutch hubs Will not work on clutch baskets with reversed inner clutch hubs where the integrated clutch faceplate is facing outward Replaces HD tool HD, Used on and later cc models and and earlier XL models.

In stock at Motion Pro It's ready to ship from here today. Gasket Scraper. Got to have one if you remove the inner hub or basket. Now flatten the other side of the piece. This will be the arbor. You could use a drill press for this part, but I highly recommend you do it on the lathe, as this significantly increases the precision of the hole. You should now have a sprocket blank that looks like the one in the picture. Make sure the 0. This side will be facing up when you begin milling your sprocket.

This should be plain and simple. The end of the template will fit up against the chuck on your cnc and will hold the blank sprocket piece in place. Make sure that you place the template face side up.

Now click on both the 0 x axis and 0 y axis buttons on mach3 they are circled in orange on the picure.